Photo from: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/columns/luke-leitch/TMG10675589/Chanel-autumnwinter-2014-at-Paris-Fashion-Week.html
Having not long ago visited Paris, I was keen to keep informed on PFW. Chanel’s display incorporated an extremely lavish supermarket layout with chanel-branded products. The clothes themselves were were quite varied, with lots of pastel tones, oversized coats, obviously with the Chanel culture attached to it. It was an extremely innovative catwalk design by Karl Lagerfeld but I can’t help think the it was a hindrance not help to the clothes!
I have just come back from four days in Paris, which was organised as a course trip by the university of Leeds. One of our days was spent at Premiere Vision: an international fabric trade show for buyers internationally to visit to buy fabrics for their collections. This visit was for Spring/Summer 2015 collections and designers from all over the world exhibited their work. Premiere Vision began 40 years ago in France and it expanded on a European basis and then onto a global scale. It is now an international marketplace where designers are selected and chosen on a really good quality basis. We received a talk from the England/Ireland representative who gave us an overview of the show and ideas of what to look at. The main advice was to look at the trends that were apparent at the show, this was specifically through touch tables in which, visitors could feel the fabric qualities.
The complex is extremely big and if spent looking at each section thoroughly, it would take several days to get through it. The halls were divided into categories for example, Indigo was print design in which print designs were displayed for buyers to buy. It was really interested to see how the stands were set up for business people to make appointments to negotiate buying deals. This area had swatches and designs mounted onto card, which were sold as seen, therefore you are buying the copyright to the work. Expofil consisted for fibres, filaments, yarns, which were not in production but merely ideas. From my general insight into the exhibition I observed that presenting wool as a raw material was a strong selling point for exhibitors. There was a strong emphasis into showing that sustainable fabrics were at the forefront of the company, even through displaying cotton plants or a plastic sheep! During the talk the phrase: ‘Fashion starts with fabric’ was a key line. It was said by Paul Smith in which he expressed the importance of fabric decisions. My favourite section was Tops and Shirts section, there were printed designs separated through theme, for example: blurry, ethnic accents, aquatic motion, leeming flowers, curious figuratives etc. which I could strong relations to the design process which are apparent in the module brief. In relation to my own practice the exhibition was an extremely eye-opening insight into the industry, gaining a strong understanding for the market I wish to design for and how buyers go about selecting designs and fabrics for their next season’s collections.
On the final day of LFW I have been continually checking my Instagram feed to keep updated with what the designers are doing, one collection that caught my eye was Christopher Kane’s collection incorporating structural, pleating and overlapping, using minimalist colours and strong outlines. I was a dresser for day one at LFW this year where I was able to see the collections produced by London College of Fashion’s MA students, but I have been keeping a close eye on the happenings from Leeds since then! Other designers of interest to me were Erdem and Mary Katrantzou, who still among my top designer list!
photos from: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-week/pre-fall-2014/matthew-williamson/review/#/collection/runway/pre-fall-2014/matthew-williamson/17
In love with Williamson’s Pre Fall 2014 collection, incorporating a huge variety of motifs in the designs. In particular the blue and green architectural repeat patterns. This contrasts really successfully with the soft natural forms and floral prints. In my current design brief on my university course, I am exploring oriental floral designs and architectural forms, thus this collection is a strong influence to think about product outcomes and market levels.
I have always been fond of Erdem, I especially love their choice of colour being quite muted and soft with injection of vibrant yet sophisticated tones. In particular, this Autumn/Winter 2014-15 by them really caught my eye. Perhaps it is because I could see these trends and prints being translated into high street wear. The small scale prints and lace is really intricate and delicate forming a feminine design which is something I would like to portray in my design work this semester. Cant wait!
Having a glance at WGSN trend forecasting for the Spring/Summer 2014 womenswear market, I particularly liked the upcoming geometric prints influenced by handcrafted, Indian-inspired woodblock techniques. The trend focuses on simple repeat block patterns in two-toned colours, the aim is to create a traditional style printing and translate it in an organic, geometric route for womenswear print. This trend has been implemented into the catwalk collections by Chloe and Valentino for their SS14. I personally really like the simplicity but the effectiveness the style beings, with variations of scale and alignment on the body.
I have never really been a big fan of florals on garments but I am taking a liking to winter florals on clothes. It is the muted colour tones and slight more sophistication that is incorporated that I feel makes the outcomes more desirable. I also feel that it looks quite expensive, I hope that florals during the winter seasons will take off further.