Draper’s most recent articles

I have been keeping up to date with the latest happenings in the industry and found these articles the most interesting – interesting to see M&S boosting their digitial presence through hiring the founder of shazam, Reiss is continuing to grow internationally and Burberry and Mario Testino presented a live photoshoot on Snapchat. Always fun to get these email daily and read them before I start my day…




Average UK shopping trip now takes over four hours, research finds

As I am now back at university and starting to think about my dissertation project, I found this article really interesting to consider. I am researching into sensory marketing/namely tactile marketing and the affects this has on consumer behaviour.

Article can be found: http://uk.fashionmag.com/news/Average-UK-shopping-trip-now-takes-over-four-hours-research-finds,545967.html#utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email

Hammerson, the UK property specialist, has just released its 2015 retail report “Shopper Tribes.”

The average shopping journey in the UK now takes over four hours, the report found. This includes browsing, researching, checking prices and purchasing, and nearly 40% of it is spent in stores.

Photo: Hammerson

The survey divides shoppers into three groups: Channel Surfing Enthusiasts, aged 18-34 and 35-54, and Focused Functional Spenders, aged 55+. The youngest group are the keenest shoppers, but the 35-54-year-olds spend the most as a group.

Multichannel shopping is more common than ever, with most (86%) now using two or more channels. Of the younger shoppers, 24% use four or more channels and over half (58%) use mobile or tablet devices whilst shopping.

The survey also found that Black Friday and “half price” were the most effective promotions.

David Atkins, CEO at Hammerson, said: “In many ways, the proliferation of research tools and digital innovations has democratised shopping, empowering consumers but also giving retailers numerous touch points to reach their customers and engage with them along the journey.  With nearly two fifths of this shopping time spent in store, there is a real opportunity for retailers to showcase a proposition that is unmatched in the online world, and for landlords to provide experiences beyond pure retail that capture and extend customer dwell-time.”

Manuel Facchini – London Fashion Week

I was introduced to a designer I hadn’t heard of thanks to this year’s LFW – Manuel Facchini. I loved the collection he showed! The collection had a strong artistic yet practical feel, combining lots of fabric manipulation, which was influenced by strong innovations of forms and concepts. The collection is said to ‘blend apparently irreconciliable worlds: gothic rock and sports, intended as processing techniques and architecture , that are united through an unusual new conceptual and innovative interpretation.’

I was drawn to the gothic style, which contrasts with lightness, yet has a strong architectural feel, but still reminds me of insects!

See the collection here: http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?designerID=2716

More about the collections from LFW’s official website:
Patterns, which are the real protagonist of the collection and a silent tribute to art, are created through the use of jacquards, personalized prints, and placed motifs.
The collection was designed for a determined, modern, multi-faced, cosmopolitan woman who feels at ease in any situation. Cultured and vibrant, she has two souls: sporty-chic by day and dark rock by night, but she’s always absolutely sophisticated.
Manuel Facchini’s story is expressed through his collections in an explosive mix of cultures and countercultures that range from Victorian England to Life on Mars, from the gothic moods of Northern Europe to Hollywood glamour. The synthesis of these elements gives his clothes pure,geometric,sculptural aesthetics for an absolute ideal of beauty.
mf mf1 mf2

H&M CSR efforts

Despite being the second largest fashion retailer, H&M have done so well with their efforts towards sustainability and the environment, especially with their ‘conscious’ range. I’m always interested to see what fashion retailers are doing towards the matter, especially in an industry where it is dominated by cheap, throw-away clothes.

The article:

available from: http://uk.fashionmag.com/news/H-M-is-launching-a-new-effort-to-promote-recycling,563093.html#utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email

H&M is launching a new effort to promote recycling

Hennes & Mauritz, the world’s second-biggest fashion retailer, is launching a new effort to promote recycling as it seeks to cut its environmental impact, boost its ethical credentials and address looming shortages of raw materials.

“Close the Loop” – H&M

The move comes as critics point out the damage being caused by a throwaway culture fuelled by cheap clothing that has seen a sharp rise in the number of garments sold annually around the world.

Sweden’s H&M, which is launching a line of jeans containing recycled cotton next week, will offer an annual 1-million-euro ($1.16 million) prize for new techniques to recycle clothes, Chief Executive Karl-Johan Persson told Reuters.

“No company, fast-fashion or not, can continue exactly like today,” Persson said. “The (prize’s) largest potential lies with finding new technology that means we can recycle the fibres with unchanged quality.”

As population pressure mounts, retailers like H&M are concerned about potential future shortages of cotton, which is heavily water and pesticide dependent.

Existing cotton recycling methods make poor-quality fibres, and there is no efficient way to recycle garments of mixed materials, so the vast majority of clothes end up in land fill.

Johan Rockstrom, environmental science professor at Stockholm University and a jury member for the H&M prize, said the fashion industry needs to find new business models to respond to global resource shortages.

“This is a great challenge for H&M whose trademark is cheap clothes at good quality … The fact it’s cheap means there’s a risk people buy and throw away, or buy too much,” he said.

H&M revenues have more than doubled since 2006, reaching 151 billion Swedish crowns ($18.3 billion) in the year to last November, making it the second biggest fashion retailer after Spain’s Inditex.

Bernstein analyst Anne-Charlotte Windal said the industry’s sustainability drive reflected the dilemma facing “fast-fashion” companies that constantly churn out new styles.

“The model only works if they encourage very frequent purchases, but the consumers are aware of the increasing effect it has on the environment,” she said.

Other companies are coming up with their own solutions.

Mud Jeans is a Dutch company which leases its garments to consumers and then offers them a replacement each year, repairing and reselling the used ones or recycling the fabric.

“This is the future: producers that are responsible for their own waste,” said Chief Executive Bert van Son.

“Our company can do this because we are quite small: that it is why we can do these kinds of crazy things because we can keep cotton pure. If you are a big store chain it is very complicated if you mix cotton and polyester.”

H&M joined forces earlier this year with Puma-owner Kering to support start-up Worn Again which is developing a technology for separating and extracting fibres in mixed-material garments.

Meanwhile, a company called Re:newcell is developing a method to improve the quality of recycled cotton fibres and hopes to build a first factory in coming years.

Currently, only about a maximum of 20 percent of recycled cotton can be used in a new pair of jeans because the fibre length is shortened in the shredding process, impacting quality, H&M says.

H&M and Kering are not alone in beating the recycling drum. Like H&M, Britain’s Marks & Spencer and Italy’s Calzedonia collects used items in their stores for recycling.

On a much smaller scale, Finnish entrepreneurs Pure Waste Textiles have managed to produce sweat shirts from 100 percent recycled cotton after improving existing recycling techniques and by recycling offcuts from clothes factories.

However, others believe that recycling is just a distraction from the real challenge of the fashion industry: persuading customers to keep wearing their clothes for longer.

To that end, British designer Tom Cridland is offering a 30-year guarantee on a range of T-shirts.

“I don’t believe it is fair on customers to churn out plain white T-shirts that will only last a year or two,” he said. “I can’t compete on price so I have to do something different.” ($1 = 0.8626 euros) ($1 = 8.2747 Swedish crowns)

OASIS – The V&A Collection

Really loved the V&S collection by Oasis this summer for their SS15 collection. Using more or less one print and adapting it commercially into different product types – this was really infuential when thinking about my final collection. Having visited Westfield, Stratford store it was really interesting to see parts of the range and how it had been VMed. I think Oasis really considered their target customer and suited the brand perfectly.




Designed by:
William Kilburn, 1745-1818

Before turning his hand to textiles, William Kilburn
was a botanical illustrator famous for recreating
naturalistic flowers and plants.”

Link to website: http://www.oasis-stores.com/

UK’s John Lewis to introduce in-store spa concept

Paula Nickolds, Buying and Brand Director, John Lewis said: “We know that today shoppers want more than just products when they walk through our shop doors; they also want a space where they can enjoy new experiences and relax with friends and family. We always strive to offer our customers an exciting and inspiring shopping experience and today’s announcement builds on this ambition. Our existing beauty and spa offers have been really successful and we wanted to find a way to take these to the next level.”

Article can be found:


Liberty to expand!

The iconic British department store is looking to expand into the US, which is exciting news for the store! A bit of Britain is moving over the pond:

The retailer will sell its Flowers of Liberty collection in five Nordstrom stores this summer, as part of the US department chain’s Pop-in@Nordstrom series. The collection features three prints – Wiltshore, Betsy and Theodora – on a range of kitchenware, food and gifts.

Article by  available from: http://uk.fashionmag.com/news/UK-s-Liberty-plans-international-expansion,544978.html#utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email